That’s the percentage reduction. When cutting through card with a knife a slightly angled edge is inevitable however upright one tries to keep the blade. These tend to break up or canât be sanded down below a certain size. Even at the later stages of design development it pays to be truly creative with the model, to be inventive with methods of representation or âsimulationâ. The following aims to serve as an introduction to the purposes of the so-called ‘white card model’ in film/tv design work, what it should include, and the materials one can choose to make it. Matte is definitely better to choose (there are some semi-glossy types), and avoid white card which has a noticeable layering inside (a bit like plywood) because this is likely to be the toughest to cut! There should always be at least one scale figure included, simply as a familiar indication of scale. The 1/4 inch (1:48) scale white card model for ‘Boardwalk Empire’ not only fully clarified the space but also communicated much of the ‘look’ due to the inclusion of the signage. These are then cut out and assembled to form 3D structures. The ‘rule’ is that anything which has a significant physical bearing on the set space (such as a pillar, steps, changes in floor level, opening doors, railings etc.) It is therefore quite literally a three-dimensional âblueprintâ of the intended design. Its main advantage is in combining ease of cutting with robustness (i.e. Cutting Sharpen one of the long edges of a narrow putty knife blade, then use the tool to slice slight curves in the foam. For obvious reasons even small ground surface elements or slight level changes will have an impact on how the space can be used, so these need to be physically represented in the model rather than just drawn. Usually the minimum quantity one can order is an 8x4ft sheet (1220x2440mm) which can be quickly delivered, but if one accepts this the price of 1mm or 2mm Palight can work out cheaper than most forms of cardboard. Thin acetate sheet is the most available clear plastic to use for representing window glass. The best advice I can give (apart from the points above) is to spend a little time getting acquainted just with what it feels like to press the scalpel blade firmly against a metal edge and move along evenly. the same should apply to the white card model. secure enough to be a good support, not only when transporting the model but also for resting it down even where there are no totally free table-tops available. There is always a margin left for personal judgement! Just as there is always room for the personal touch, to be a little bit more personal, creative or even .. aesthetic! So .. 20 into 50 gives us ‘2.5’ and 2.5 into 100 gives us ’40’ .. so this time it’s 40% reduction. It may offer no information on colour, little on texture and materials, but all the most essential information on space, structure, movable elements and their practical implications. can be left flat as drawing. Just cut enough to be able to bend it backward. 5cm amounts to a thickness of 1mm in a 1:50 scale model. Similarly if a ceiling exists in a used location it should be included, to make it clear where it is, even if the camera is going to avoid it. It is more solid in the center, which is why it is sometimes referred to as rigid foam insulation. It is a common mistake to forget that something will be seen through a window, or an open door. Knowing just how to cut foam board and still have the edges look nice can be a tricky thing. As a general rule when cutting anything by hand with a knife it is always better to take things carefully and slowly. This is one of the most common problems people experience when cutting foam board. Even if one has recently completed the technical drawings, before starting a 1:50 or a quarter-inch white card model .. or any scaled model .. one should take a moment to re-acquaint oneself properly with the scale again. At 1:50-1:20 scale this doesnât need to be very thick and usually the slightly stiffer version of two commonly sold as A4/A3 sheets in graphics or copy shops (for writing or printing on to use for overhead projection) will remain flat enough. This will ‘string’ the glue slightly, and when you press the piece down again the bond will already be much firmer and will not need supporting. Acetate cuts easily with a scalpel but if need be thicker sheets can be scored and snapped cleanly. Having to flip little bits of cardboard open in the model just to show that they open seems a bit unnecessary and could even be dangerous to the model if nerves are affecting one’s motor-control! Expanded polystyrene is basically the same substance but formed differently and the cells are much larger. 4. with a 24 gram blue wonder and a 800 mAh LiPO. Towel Ring Height and Other Fixtures: Proper Measurements, Homemade Paint Removers for Every Surface. For this reason, it is essential to mark the back of it before cutting, especially if you are cutting the width at a particular bump. Also, whatever you decide to cut with should be held as horizontally as possible. The nose and tail ends were tapered using pleats to make the tubeâs diameter smaller and result in a slight compound curve. Itâs possible to create precise, strong, curved shapes with foam board using nothing but foam board and masking tape and then covering with paper maché. I would suggest you use it sparingly until you’ve mastered how to achieve perfectly clean, straight cuts. If you’re unlucky and part of the floor sinks below the common ‘0’ level, this is another good reason for using something like 10mm Kapa-line foamboard as a base. Here is another curved foam board project. If you want to install rigid foam above your roof sheathing in Climate Zone 3, then 1/2 inch of rigid foam board is not "ideal." Use duct tape or hot glue to adhere it to foam board. donât necessarily need to be permanent, these light, easily-worked, so-called ârigidâ foams may be an option. A dull blade will make it impossible to cut without getting jagged edges since the tiniest variance in the blade can affect it. There’s nothing that transmits an impression of carelessness more than a lot of bashed corners! A rubber contact adhesive such as âEvo-Stik Impactâ will be needed. The fuzzy burr of paper which develops along both sides can be removed by carefully ‘scuffing’ with the sanding block at a 45degree angle. Extra care needs to be taken while working with foamboard not to press down too firmly while steadying the sheet as finger-dents are very easy to get. I have fully updated this article, which was originally written a few years ago, and I have added some more illustrations. or so using just the foam from the Dollare Store foam board and a 9 gram motor. Even in the simpler case of practical doors it may be better just to glue them ajar to show that they’re practical. The material may also be familiar from exercise or camping mats. Although very soft it can be cut quite cleanly with a sharp scalpel though it canât be sanded. The section that sinks can be carefully cut out (a precision job with the scalpel), the paper can be peeled from the back of it and the foam sanded to make it thinner, and the section can then be glued back where it came from .. now a little sunk. Strictly speaking if the walls of a studio set are going to be built to a certain height, even if that extends beyond what the camera will see, they should be built to that height in the model. Wrap a thin batting around the foam board frame. College shops in the UK tend to stock inexpensive thin white card from the art supply firm Seawhite in 200, 300 or 600gsm weights. Just make a ⦠Cartwright has published several eBooks on craft and garden-related subjects. cleaner cut is almost always achieved by starting carefully with a very light guiding cut and following through a few times, increasing the pressure gradually. It may really be this simple! One should, for example, look at how small a figure is (average male actor 1.75m high), how high a door might be (average 2m high), but just as importantly how thick a piece of card is needed to represent 5 or 10cm reasonably accurately. Foam board is one of the most popular types of signage that youâve probably seen in your local supermarket or in malls but probably never knew the name. This can be visually confusing. By the way, another misunderstanding often arises when confusing dimension and surface area. Cutting On the one hand a good, robust, polyurethane-core foamboard is invaluable as a lightweight baseboard .. but if a cheap polystyrene-core one is used it is liable to warp badly over time and ends up showing every finger impression! However, it is clean and neat .. in other words the making of it looks cared about. Both will allow a certain amount of bending. Joining This is usually the scale in which the main technical ground-plans are drafted, and it is generally accepted that this is neither too small to show a significant amount of graphic detail nor to appreciate proportion in relation to the human figure. You can also just adhere it to the front with spray adhesive. Ceilings are a bit of a ‘grey area’ (i.e. Cutting Foam Board Insulation. Gluing x 4 ft. x 8 ft. R-5 Scored Square Edge Rigid Foam Board Insulation Sheathing FOAMULAR Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) Rigid FOAMULAR Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) Rigid Foam Insulation offers a comprehensive line of products - choose the strength you need, from 15 to 60 PSI and exceptional moisture resistance. Model in preparation for the build of the Sarang moon-station for the film âMoonâ 2009 on Shepperton Studios K-Stage. This would then need to be made detachable. The best brand of foamed Pvc for this kind of work is ‘Palight’, which is one of the smoothest and softest to cut ( or the similar ‘Palfoam’ which is even softer and supposed to be cheaper). Whereas PU foam is not affected by solvents and can be glued quite effectively with UHU, contact adhesives or even superglue, styrofoam and polystyrene require special âfoam friendlyâ glues such as âUHU Porâ or solvent free (I recently found that Gorilla Glue will also work very well since it is polyurethane). Use a straight edge or ruler and use a permanent marker to make a clear and precise line. These may well become inevitable with a ‘working’, much-carried cardboard model, but just a little bit of extra strengthening can limit the damage. In any case white mountboard tends to be cheaper and some brands are softer to cut. This is made only in white and will be most familiar as hardware packaging material and ceiling tiles etc. I think that at the very least off-white, beige or light-grey should be used because white is far too glaring .. it bounces the light within and around it like a pinball and consequently it gives a misleading impression of interior spaces! But it’s different when copies of the technical drawings are pasted to the surfaces .. there is less glare and, dependent on the style of drawing and the copier settings, often a variety of grey tones. HOW-TO: Carve Tombstones from Insulation Foam Board. Otherwise, the model can become chequered with distracting areas of black. The model above was created by Patrick Scalise while a student at Wimbledon College of Art. Draw the desired shape with a marker on the foam board. This is not the case with polystyrene because of its much larger cell structure. Brush on a liberal amount of water. This may seem like a contradiction in modern language but you’ll understand, it’s the best way of describing actual physical scale models made of buildings, structures or landscapes that are never going to exist in their entirety in real size .. but are treated as if they will! If you visit Warner Bros. ‘The Making of Harry Potter’ you’ll see a number of these, alongside other white card models for interiors and other large ‘props’ that were physically built. One exception to the ‘5cm rule’ may be the floor area .. and this calls for the personal judgement of the designer/maker. These are quite strong, but also suitable for delicate cutting. While you can use anything that has a sharp blade on it to cut foam board, some things naturally work better than others. Since white card models It is usually not a realistic, atmospheric rendition of what the set will look like, let alone how it will appear in the film. These can be a good option and, if going this route, you should pick a knife with a relatively long yet thin blade. For more on how to shape styrofoam, including concave as well as convex forms, see my article Shaping styrofoam under ‘shaping’ in the Materials section. You should also use an extra-long blade for this. This should remain within reason ..for example, it is easy enough to half-way cut through card to make a working door but it would be unreasonable to expect a working roller-blind! Colour can become a distraction, giving visual weight to some elements to the detriment of a balanced overall view. Step 6 with my own little twists to it. Perhaps an even easier alternative for achieving curving walls is to use a dense foam sheet such as Plastazote, which is spongy and very flexible, or a thin styrene plastic (see below). It also helps if this card doesnât fragment (divide into layers) so easily when finely cut. For starters, it has one side that has ridges or bumps on one side of it, the other side being flat and smooth like a regular foam board. Most often the master groundplan is used, spraymounted to the baseboard. This is the normal size sheet (20 inches by 30 inches and 5mm thick). Most people will be familiar with the similar, brightly coloured âhobbyfoamâ sheets for children which usually range between 1-3mm thickness. Courtesy HBO ‘Boardwalk Empire: Designing an Empire’. I hold the sheet firmly with a large metal rule and then take off the cardboard avoiding any possibility of the foam being torn away. Not warp as much as other types of card when painted is certainly true of board. Is manufactured in 3, 5 and 10mm thicknesses, as mentioned earlier foamboard and Graphic! I would recommend spraying it first with Simoniz white acrylic primer even this. To say that I have mixed feelings about the use of foamboard wall! 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Straps tighten them down against the two pieces of wood where humanly possible other:.
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